Hustling the bustle

The Manchester Royal Exchange Theatre's Costume Hire Department recently commissioned me to create this Victorian style corseted bustle dress in green duchesse satin. It is based on a costume that had been on their rails for 17 years was a very popular plus-sized pattern.

The dustle and draped apron front of this dress take up a lot of fabric, and the Victorians really liked all their trimmings and decorative touches and this dress is full of them. There is a velvet trim bordered with fringe as well as ribbon, and several feature buttons. The corseted bodice has satin covered piping at the seams and edges, and the sleeves have lace inserts and more buttons.

The lace-up back to the bodice means that it can be worn by people of a wide variety of sizes, which is very useful for Costume Hire as you never know who you'll be dressing.

The Costume Hire Department were thrilled with this revamped version of a favourite and have put in an order for another one in purple already!

Here comes the bride!

So this was the year that two of my closest friends decided to tie the knot, and I was really pleased that Red asked me to make her outfit for her special day. Red wanted an overbust corset, and two different types of matching skirt: one long with a small train for the ceremony, and one knee-length circle skirt to be worn with a petticoat for the party afterwards.

I was very confident with the circle skirt, as I've made a lot of these in the past, and the long skirt was not too complex in design. The first mock-up had a single centreback seam and was made of one front panel and two back panels with a center-back concealed zip. This didn't move in quite the way the bride wanted, so it was re-designed to have a godet starting at the back of the knee. This meant it hugged her behind a little better and the small train fanned out behind her a little more naturally.

She chose an ivory duchesse satin for the ensemble and a standard anti-static polyester for the skirts. The corset was lined with white cotton and inter-lined with corsetry coutil.

In order to avoid any obvious bulges under the corset, I made both of the skirts without waistbands. I did this by making the linings a perfect copy (but with slightly higher hems), folding them under and understitching the seam allowance.

The corset was based on a Harlots and Angels overbust pattern as I have found their patterns to be very reliable and have a really good waist curve. My bride is quite top-heavy and we wanted to make sure that there was no chance of any ‘slips’ during the dancing. We both wanted to avoid cups due to the aesthetic and the complexity, so the mock-up corset was quite rigorously tested. The bust seams were nipped in just above the top curve of the breasts, and the underarm line was raised a little to hold them in at the sides. I deepened the sweetheart neckline a little for just the right amount of sexy(!) and bound the edges in the same fabric.After much experimentation with a mock-up in coutil a combination of flat steels over the tummy and spirals over the bust point to allow for the steep curve was the solution. Most of the rest of the corset was boned with spiral for comfort as they are flexible in 4 directions and tend not to dig in or restrict movement.

We chose some really long decorative silver aglets for the laces which were cornflower blue to co-ordinate with the petticoat she wore under the circle skirt. These both tied in with the very pretty and unusual union flag shoes that she got from Irregular Choice.

Photo shoot pictures to follow!

Steampunking it up in Whitby

Recently I went to Whitby with some die-hard steampunk friends for the steampunk social. It's a beautiful place and there were some really outstanding outfits on show.

At first I didn't think I'd have anything to wear, but then I recalled my old Victorian pieces I made for Halloween a couple of years ago. Combined with an underbust corset from one of my burlesque outfits that's made from burgundy taffeta with black beading on the upper trim and my red satin bolero style jacket I really started to look the part.

The underskirt is a wine coloured satin with corded gathering behind the knee and a small train, and the overskirt is made from brocade with a layer of dance net at the back to form a bustle effect with the ties inside giving it shape.

I also had a black furry shrug that I'd lined with red satin and had a red satin tie for when it got colder and a matching burgundy facinator made by a friend of mine (Chapeau Carmine on Etsy). The whole look was finished with a necklace made of keys and a brown leather satchel.

They've got to be easy to remove...

So 2 new burlesque routines were put together recently, 1 of which was a double-act so lots of costuming has been a-foot.

The corset is entirely spiral steels to allow flexibility for dancing in. It doesn't have a busk as it stays on for the whole performance and as I had to make 2 of everything it kept cost down too! When I first made it I put 2 wide inflexible steels at the centre front which gave a lovely flat front but had a couple of drawbacks.
1. As it was based on the same pattern that I had made for an entirely spirals corset, the flats stopped it tightening quite so much at the waist and although the silhouette from the front was gorgeous, the back lacing had that upside-down 'V' of a poorly fitting corset.
2. It didn't work very well with a bra as it made the underwires dig in.
3. It was a lot more difficult to bend over in, which was essential for my solo act, which used the reverse side of the corset. (Yes, reversible too!)

The skirt is a riot of liquid satin and garish colour. The complimentary skirt was made with the blue satin that you can see in the trim and pink and yellow ruffles. Everything had to be overlocked or roll-hemmed, including the ruffles as liquid satin unravels quicker than a ball of wool in the clutches of a kitten. I was hoping my Ultimate Ruffler would make light work of this, but sadly it just wasn't up to the job and I had to gather by hand. It wraps around and the ribbon waistband turns into a side-tie for easy removal.

This is the reverse of the corset, which I designed to go with my other new costume. This saved me having to make yet another corset for the event, and saved money obviously. It was a little tricky trying to work out how to do the lacing panels without interfering with either side but I was very pleased with the final piece. Both outers are 100% cotton with a cotton coutil sandwiched in between.

I really didn't know what I was going to do about the modesty panel - in the end I just made a loose one that the person lacing me up could push into place for me. This corset was an absolute nightmare to lace as it had to be so loose in order to get it over my head, it needed so much tightening once on and I'd accidentally bought a new type of lace with no slide whatsoever. Trying to get it off in a hurry was no fun either as the easiest option was to just unlace -tricky on your own at the end of the night!

Kitsch... I think I can manage that...

Well it's been a busy month or so behind the sewing machine so hopefully the drought of blogs will be replaced by a tidal wave. Starting with this one.

This was my outfit for the kitsch-themed Dystopia night. I had to find quite a lot of fabric for decorating the venue so was in a good position for getting myself some perfect prints. In the past I've been rather reticent about buying fabric online - "you need to feel the schmatter" as a good friend of mine would say. However, despite a slightly annoying colour mix up it was a very successful venture, including this rather funky cotton tattoo print.

The dress pattern is a Butterick Retro Collection pattern - retro patterns re-drafted for the modern seamstress, a godsend! The pattern and instructions were simple and easy to understand, and the sizes were much more modern too. I had originally intended to make the wiggle dress version which is what I made for my mock up, but at the last minute I decided a full skirt had more kitsch value. It took about a day and a half - not bad at all.

The contrasting corset has been made with the pink tattoo print on the reverse so hopefully it will function as a reversible corset. This will make the busk a little weird I think, but I'll see how it goes - I only finished putting the grommets in an hour before the event so it wasn't able to do up very tight sadly, it's based on the simplicity 9769 which gives such a wonderful curve to the waist. It has a bit of a strange height (about mid nipple) which works quite well over the top of a dress but not on it's own.

As for accessories, I made a facinator with a kitsch-tastic button and a healthy amount of white veiling. Sewing into memory foam is always a bit risky for tearing, but I made good use of UHU too :) There was also a matching croissant handbag that sadly I have no pictures of, based on a 1940s pattern. I made it from the pink fabric with a rose decoration made from the blue fabric of the corset.

I was a bit concerned it was overly demure for the event, but the entire outfit went down very well and I received a lot of compliments which was really lovely.

I also performed at the event, and created a couple of little gems that I will post about as soon as I get some pictures.

That dress finally!

I completed this dress a while ago but I've been slack about getting the picture up on here. I decided not to put the featherweight bones in in the end as I didn't want them getting creased and looking rubbish. It does roll down a little at the back, especially when wearing a corset, but I think that could be fixed for future incarnations. It needs a decent petticoat which means I need to spend some time with my Ultimate Ruffler! In this picture I'm wearing it with my longline white underbust corset which looks great on the waist. It is wearable without a corset though, which is lucky for dancing :)

Thanks to Chris W Parker for the photo x

Resolute

When I was about 13 I made a New Years resolution to never again make new years resolutions. This year I'm breaking it (it did pretty well!) and I'm making 3 resolutions.

1) Wear more silk. This also means sew more silk as my budget doesn't exactly allow for trips to Agent Provocateur every other week! On the few occaisions I have sewn with silk in the past I've run into a fair few problems with its tendancy to fray and it's light and floaty ways. It does also give me the opportunity to learn more about the different types too and I do so want to improve my textile knowledge.

2) Watch at least 1 classic b&w film a week. Ok, not massively sewing related, but I imagine I will be wanting to copy the odd design. I watched It's A Wonderful Life for the first time a few days ago and I just wanted to recreate every single outfit I saw! Please put any recommendations in the comments, I need to build a big 'to watch' list.

3) Make myself at least 1 garment a month. I need to find time to sew for myself too - and not just the hastily thrown together fancy dress things I'm always doing. Things like a dress, a corset (finally!), or even a petticoat.

It's going to be a pretty busy year for me! I'm managing a shop full-time now while still keeping the corset-making/seamstressing side going. I think it'll take me a while to get used to having to be at the shop all the time, but at least my lovely friend Dr Sid got me a handheld sewing machine for Christmas so I can still make progress between customers! I'm working on a bullet bra at the moment, it's a strange garment - I'll let you know how I get on!

Happy New Year everyone xxx

Belated photos of my Halloween costume

It's taken me a while to get the pictures of my halloween costume uploaded. I was really pleased with the overskirt with built in bustle and underskirt with train. Both from Truly Victorian patterns. It's pictured with my black underbust cincher and a lovely hat made by a friend of mine.

Blue corset

It's all finished, and here is the lovely new corset. I hope she likes her xmas present frome her boyfriend :)

Choir boys and corsets...

I've nearly finished a lovely blue satin underbust corset with black bone coverings (designed by the customer) so pictures will follow very shortly :)

I've started knitting some lace to try and relieve the boredom of the skinny scarf but it's slow progress - it takes a lot of concentration away from my M*A*S*H watching! A plus note on the knitting front however, my mother is visiting tomorrow and will be bringing me wool and doll patterns- christmas is saved!

I've been trawling the net for a free choir robe pattern and would you believe it? No-one wants to give away that little secret! Ho hum, doesn't look complicated - I think I can work it out easily enough.

I bought yet another roll of mock up fabric yesterday so looking forward to getting stuck into that, though lord only knows when I'll find the time! I'm away for a long weekend and I'm getting upset and being away from my sewing machine that long! I really must get a life...